There is an extensive write-up here on MonteCarloSS.com that outlines
with pictures the steps you can take to dramatically improve your dash /
gauge lighting. Go to: Dash Light Write-up
Q:
My Oil gauge is not reading correctly. (Minimum scale, Maximum scale, Erratically)
Crazy oil pressure readings can be caused by a number of reasons:
Intermittent connect at the oil pressure sender above the oil
filter. A short to ground will cause a zero pressure reading,
an open connection will cause a full scale pressure reading.
Bad Oil Pressure Sender above the oil filter. (usually fails
in the full scale oil pressure indication)
Intermittent connection behind the oil pressure gauge.
If you are getting wildly fluxuating reading from maximum to
minimum, the wire going to the oil pressure sendor is probably
shorting to ground intermittently. This can happen if it melts
to the exhaust manifold. Check the wiring.
Q:
My Choke light comes on momentarily when I come to a stop quickly. (or is on all the time)
The choke light is linked to the Oil Pressure function. The sensory
circuitry gets it's power from the Oil Pressure monitor. If oil pressure
drops to nothing (due to low oil level), the choke like will come on.
This ususally happens when coming to a stop quickly, causing what little
oil is present in the oil pan to slosh forward, away from the oil pump pickup
point.
Service Engine Soon (SES) lamp flicker is sometimes mistaken for the
choke light coming on momentarily. Both are amber in color. There are
no ECM circumstances that would cause the SES lamp to come on momentarily.
If you suspect SES flicker, pay attention to the lamp.. it's probably the
choke lamp flickering, with the cause stated above.
Ultimately, the solution for this is to look at your oil level and correct
it if it is too low. Find where your oil leak is.
If your choke light is on constantly and your oil pressure is normal, check
the power circuitry from the oil pressure monitor to the choke, or the choke
itself.
Q:
The High position on my A/C fan (blower) doesn't work.
There are a number of components that will cause the high position of the fan to not
be operative. Check them in the following order:
Check the A/C fuse (25 amp) and ensure it is not blown.
4 pin connector
on passenger side of the engine. The heavy red wire contact usually corrodes.
Inspect and clean the contacts. Replace if necessary. Here is another image showing
the location of this connector in the engine bay:
Image 2
Fan Switch located in the dash.
This switch is secured with a single 1/4 hex head screw. Be careful not to damage the vacuum
lines that are attached to the A/C controls when you partially remove the assembly. Inspect
and clean the contacts. Replace the switch if necessary. The two images of the fan switch
show a burnt contact (the battery lead) which would cause the switch to become inoperative. Fan Switch Image 2.
Blower Relay on blower assembly.
Passenger side of car, 5 pin connector, 2 bolts cheap at local auto parts store. Inspect and
clean the contacts. Replace if necessary.
Blower Motor. Inspect and clean the
purple wire contact that goes to the blower motor. Replace the motor if necessary.
Q:
One or more of the three low settings on the A/C fan don't work.
Assumimg the high fan position is operating the cause could be a failure of a number
of components. If the high fan position is not working, use the instructions above
for an inoperative high fan position. Each of the components below can be easily
found from a donor car at a boneyard.. or purchased cheaply at your local autoparts store.
Check the following components in this order:
Fan Switch located in the dash.
This switch is secured with a single 1/4 hex head screw. Be careful not to damage the vacuum
lines that are attached to the A/C controls when you partially remove the assembly. Inspect
and clean the contacts. Replace the switch if necessary. The two images of the fan switch
show a burnt contact (the battery lead) which would cause the switch to become inoperative. Fan Switch Image 2.
Resistor Assembly located
on the blower housing. The resistor assembly is secured with two screws on the top of the
blower housing. Inspect and clean the contacts. Inspect the resistor coils for damage.
Replace if necessary. Here are two more images of the Resistor Assembly: Resistor Assembly Location,
Resistor Assembly Image 2.
Check the Dark Blue wire contact on the
Blower Relay. The Blower relay is located on the Blower housing and is secured by two screws.
Clean the contacts. Replace the relay if necessary.
Q:
There's a green connector in front of my carburetor that is not connected to anything.
What is it and what should it be connected to?
The Green wire/connector on the front of the carburetor is a diagnostic
connector and is normally not connected to anything. This is where you
would connect a Dwell meter to monitor the mixture control solenoid within
the carburetor.
Q:
Is there anything I can do to improve the lighting in my engine bay?
There is an extensive write-up here on MonteCarloSS.com that outlines
with pictures the steps you can take to dramatically improve your under-
hood lighting. Go to: Engine Bay Light
Write-up. Also addresses improved trunk lighting.
Q:
Is there anything I can do to improve the interior lighting in my T-Toped SS?
There is an extensive write-up here on MonteCarloSS.com that outlines
with pictures the steps you can take to dramatically improve your interior
lighting when you have T-Tops (with no dome light). Go to:
Rear View Mirror Light Write-up
Q:
I cut my computer harness out, now my cruise control doesn't work. How can I fix this?
Thanks to Chris, aka 85SSMan on the message board for the following information:
Here is the scoop, I recently rebuilt my engine and like many others took out the computer harness, BUT, here is the difference, From what I gather alot of us are just pulling the sensors, and not cutting out the harness at the computer like I did. So for those of us that have cut the harness, and now have no Cruise Control fear not!!! The only thing that we need to fix is..
Find your buffer box, it is a small green box located behind the stereo(drivers side) there is a total of 7 wires coming out of it. Three are together coming out of the bottom (RED, GREEN, BLACK) these wires run to the VSS on the back of the speedo, GREEN is 12V, BLACK is Ground, and RED is the SIGNAL to the BUFFER.
Next you will find two harnesses on the top off the buffer box, one SINGLE YELLOW wire, this sends the signal to the Cruise Control Module, also there is a 3 wire harness, this is where the BIG PROBLEM lies, PINK/W BLACK STRIPE wire is your 12V to power the VSS, BLACK/W WHITE STRIPE this is the GROUND, THIS WIRE USED TO GROUND TO THE COMPUTER HARNESS, THAT IS WHY YOUR CRUISE WONT WORK!!! CUT THIS WIRE AND GROUND IT WITH YOUR STEREO HARNESS. NOW YOUR CRUISE SHOULD WORK. Also has a brown wire, this can be ignored, it is the VSS signal to the computer.
