Q:
What engines were available in the 4th Generation SS?
The only engine available for the 4th
Generation Monte Carlo SS was the L69 HO 305ci V8. There was no option
to get a 350 or any other engine from the factory.
The 8th digit of the VIN number, which indicates engine type (L69, HO 305ci V8),
must be a 'G' for 1984 through 1988 SSs, and '7' for 1983 SSs.
Some dealers installed 350 engines after the SS was delivered
from the factory. These are considered dealer options and not
considered stock. This seems to be the exception rather than the
rule. Very very few have been reported.
If someone tries to tell you they have a factory installed 350 in their
SS, don't believe them. It just didn't happen. The only possiblity is
a dealer installed option engine, which is highly unlikely. Have them
provide extensive documentation of its originality. Don't rely
on a window sticker as they can be faked very easily. A GM crate
engine can look very much like a factory installed unit, but is still a
replacement engine. A more likely scenario is that they, or another
previous owner had the engine installed in place of the original L69 305.
Q:
How much horsepower and torque is the stock SS Engine rated at?
1983
175 HP @ 4800 RPM (flywheel)
230 ft/lbs @ 3200 RPM
1984 through 1988:
180 HP @ 4800 RPM (flywheel)
225 ft/lbs @ 3200 RPM
All horsepower (HP) readings are S.A.E. Net, measured at the
flywheel of the engine, as installed, with a complete exhaust
system and all accessories attached. This figure is measured
on an engine dyno. It is not the horsepower at
the rear wheels.
Q:
Can I replace my stock 305 with a 350?
Yes. Many owners have swapped larger small block (and even
big block) engines into their SS.
The small block chevy (SBC) 350 engine is externally identical
to the 305 engine that came stock with the SS. (This assumes the
older, non-Vortec 350s). All external accessories and emissions
equipment should be able to bolt up to the 350 block.
The transmission will bolt up directly to the 350 block without problems.
Remember that if you plan on keeping the computer, all of the original
sensors must be in place, some of which have to be 350 specific. See the
related FAQ section below for more information.
Always keep in mind your local emissions laws when swapping engines.
Some areas prohibit the changing of the engine. Before you do anything,
find out what the requirements are in your area.
Q:
Did the SS ever come with a factory 350 engine?
No. The only engine available for the 4th
Generation Monte Carlo SS was the L69 HO 305ci V8. There was no option
to get a 350 or any other engine from the factory.
The 8th digit of the VIN number, which indicates engine type (L69, HO 305ci V8),
must be a 'G' for 1984 through 1988 SSs, and '7' for 1983 SSs.
Some dealers installed 350 engines after the SS was delivered
from the factory. These are considered dealer options and not
considered stock. This seems to be the exception rather than the
rule. Very very few have been reported.
If someone tries to tell you they have a factory installed 350 in their
SS, don't believe them. It just didn't happen. The only possiblity is
a dealer installed option engine, which is highly unlikely. Have them
provide extensive documentation of its originality. Don't rely
on a window sticker as they can be faked very easily. A GM crate
engine can look very much like a factory installed unit, but is still a
replacement engine. A more likely scenario is that they, or another
previous owner had the engine installed in place of the original L69 305.
Q:
What engines can I drop into my Monte Carlo SS and still be able to use the Computer?
Pretty much any small block chevy (SBC) engine can be swapped in and still
retain all of your emissions equipment, including the computer.
For the computer to continue functioning as it should, all of the sensors on
the engine must be retained. Some engines do not have provisions for all of
these sensors or emissions functions (such as EGR).
For a 350ci engine swap, a new 350 specific knock sensor and spark control
module must be used. The knock sensor is tuned for each block type's specific
harmonic range, so using a 305 knock sensor on a 350 block will not work as designed.
Some engines, such as the big block chevy (BBC), and the newer Vortec SBCs
require a little more work to retain the emissions equipment.
It is possible to have a new PROM chip made for your ECM to adapt the computer
to your new engine setup. Refer to the few ECM chip manufacturers web pages
for more information.
Always keep in mind your local emissions laws when swapping engines.
Some areas prohibit the changing of the engine. Before you do anything,
find out what the requirements are in your area.
Q:
What is the stock timing for an SS?
6 degrees BTDC
Q:
How do I set the timing on my SS? What is the procedure?
The only reliable way to set engine timing is with a timing light.
Prior to beginning, clean the
timing tab that is on the
front of the timing cover, and the balancer (particularly where the timing grove is
located). To aid in visibility, I recommend you paint this grove with silver or white
paint. You can also swipe silver paint over the timing cover timing tab to enhance the markings on it.
With the engine off, disconnect the
4 pin connector going to the lower rear of the distributor.
Connect the timing light's power cables to the battery.
Clip the timing light's sensor wire to the #1 cylinder spark plug wire
(driver's side, front spark plug). An easy place to connect this is up
by the distributor. Just make sure you have the correct wire.
With all wires clear of the fan blade and belts, start the engine.
If the timing light is the adjustable type, ensure it is in the 0 degree
advance mode.
The timing light should be strobing.. or should strobe when you hit its trigger.
If all is working properly, the timing grove on the balancer should be
present somewhere in the timing tab region when the timing light strobes on.
To adjust the timing, loosen the
distributor hold down bolt just enough to be able to rotate the distributor.
Rotate the distributor in small increments, then recheck timing. Rotate counter-clockwise
to advance timing (timing mark BTDC increases away from 0 degrees), clockwise to retard
timing (timing mark BTDC decreases toward 0 degrees). Stock timing should be 6 degrees BTDC.
You can increase this to 10 to 12 degrees BTDC for better performance.
Once you have the timing where you want, tighten the distributor hold
down bolt and recheck the timing. You may have to bias the adjustment
one way or the other to get the tightened down timing reading where you
want it.
Once you've tightened the distributor bolt down the final time, you can turn the engine off.
Reconnect the 4 pin connector and remove the timing light. You're done!
Q:
What is the stock spark plug gap for an SS?
R45TS gapped at 0.35
Q:
My Oil gauge is not reading correctly. (Minimum scale, Maximum scale, Erratically)
Crazy oil pressure readings can be caused by a number of reasons:
Intermittent connect at the oil pressure sender above the oil
filter. A short to ground will cause a zero pressure reading,
an open connection will cause a full scale pressure reading.
Bad Oil Pressure Sender above the oil filter. (usually fails
in the full scale oil pressure indication)
Intermittent connection behind the oil pressure gauge.
If you are getting wildly fluxuating reading from maximum to
minimum, the wire going to the oil pressure sendor is probably
shorting to ground intermittently. This can happen if it melts
to the exhaust manifold. Check the wiring.
Q:
My Choke light comes on momentarily when I come to a stop quickly. (or is on all the time)
The choke light is linked to the Oil Pressure function. The sensory
circuitry gets it's power from the Oil Pressure monitor. If oil pressure
drops to nothing (due to low oil level), the choke like will come on.
This ususally happens when coming to a stop quickly, causing what little
oil is present in the oil pan to slosh forward, away from the oil pump pickup
point.
Service Engine Soon (SES) lamp flicker is sometimes mistaken for the
choke light coming on momentarily. Both are amber in color. There are
no ECM circumstances that would cause the SES lamp to come on momentarily.
If you suspect SES flicker, pay attention to the lamp.. it's probably the
choke lamp flickering, with the cause stated above.
Ultimately, the solution for this is to look at your oil level and correct
it if it is too low. Find where your oil leak is.
If your choke light is on constantly and your oil pressure is normal, check
the power circuitry from the oil pressure monitor to the choke, or the choke
itself.
Q:
My engine fan makes a lot of noise. Is this normal?
Fan noise is sometimes evident under the following conditions:
When clutch is engaged for maximum cooling.
During first few minues after start-up until the clutch
can re-distribute the silicone fluid back to its normal
disengaged operating condition after overnight setting.
Fan noise or an excessive roar will generally occur continuously,
however, under all high engine speed conditions (2500 r.p.m and
above) if the clutch assembly is locked up due to an internal
failure. If the fan cannot be rotated by hand or there is a rough
grating feel as the fan is turned, the clutch should be replaced.
