First check the 4 pin connector
on front passenger side of engine.
The heavy gauge Red wire carries current to the blower relay for
the HIGH position. The pin contacts in this connector for that heavy
gauge wire often get corroded and open. Disconnect the connector and
inspect for signs of corrosion or faulty contact. Clean / Correct / Replace
as necessary.
The Blower Relay near the blower assembly
can fail. Inboard of the blower on the rear passenger side of the engine
bay, 3 pin connector, 2 bolts attach it, cheap at local auto parts store.
The fan switch on the A/C control panel can fail.. but highly unlikely.
The Blower itself can fail.. but failure would mean all fan positions are
non functional, not just the HIGH position.
Q:
One or more of the three low settings on the A/C fan don't work.
Assuming that the HIGH position works, the most likely cause is
blown resistor package that cuts the
current to the blower for the lower fan positions.
Q:
I want to convert my Air Conditioning over to R134. What is required?
Need someone to help with an answer here.
Q:
My temperature control does not work. It blows hot air all the time.
How do I fix it?
The most likely problem is a broken black plastic boomerang shaped piece that attaches
the heater control cable to the heater door rod behind the glove box. This piece is
available from your local GM Dealer Parts Counter (P/N 3037629). Special thanks
to "86ttop" from the Message Board for providing the following repair instructions:
Remove contents of the glove box.
Remove the little screw holding the glove box teather cord to the lid. You should be
able to now lower the glove box so it's pointing toward the floor. You will then
be able to access the heater box components through the glove box opening.
Unhooked the rod that goes to the door from the lever (that is what it is called)
and then twisted the little push-nut off of the spike that it is on. Warning:
Be very careful when handling the parts associated with the heater door. After
years of service, they are likely to be very brittle and can break easily!
Pay attention to the way the cable clamp is installed on the spike as it will
have to go on the same way or it will not work.
Lift up on the cable and it will come right off. The lever will be loose in your
hand.
If the broken off piece is still in the top of the box, grab it with a small pair
of pliers and twist and lift it too get it out. Be patient and it will come out.
It has a "T" shaped end on it and will come out with a little patience and work.
As an alternative, you can just push the broken piece all the way into the box, it
won't hurt anything.
Install the new lever in the box with a twisting motion while pushing down and it
will go in.
Now push the little white clip that held the rod for the door in the hole on the
same end as on the old one and while holding the lever and rod all the way forward,
ease the rod into the clip.
Next, while working the TEMP control on the dash, hook up the cable to the other
end of the lever and reinstall the push-nut and move the control back and forth to
see that everything is working as it should. If it is, you are done with the repair
and just need to reinstall the screw in the retainer wire for the glove box door.
If not you probably need some small adjustments.